Sentier des Douaniers a Historic Hiking Trail on Cap Corse in Corsica

When Is the Best Time

It's a beautiful coastal tour along the old customs officers' path the "Sentier des Douaniers", who were looking for smugglers. This hike on the less visited Cap Corse is a relatively easy tour if you have booked a boat transfer in advance for the return journey, otherwise the hike is quite challenging.

A hiker on the narrow path through the maquis. — There isn't any shade on this coastal trail.

There is no shade, why it can be scorching on this tour, even in spring and fall. We were lucky about a breeze from the sea in September, which made the temperatures of over 30°C bearable.

The scent of the maquis surrounded us most of the time and was nowhere else as intense. The maquis, consisting of myrtle, rosemary, juniper and broom, characterizes the landscapes in the Mediterranean.

The Genoese Tower Santa Maria di a Chjappella — The ruins of the watchtower are surrounded by the sea.

The well-marked path goes gently up and down and after 1 ½ hours you reach the beautifully situated ruins of the first Genoese tower; Santa Maria di a Chjappella Tower. The historical monument was partly destroyed at the end of the 18th century. Currently the tower is in poor conditions. Restoration work is planned for 2025 to preserve the tower. If the whole route is too long for you you can turn back here.

A hiker on the trail to the beach and bay Cala Genovese — The fantastic view to the beach and Santa Maria di a Chjappella Tower

After another ten minutes, you reach the beach and the bay of Cala Genovese. This is a great place where we took the opportunity to cool off in the sea.

Torra Ghjenuvese d'Agnellu at Cap Corse — The second watchtower is almost the finish of the hike.

Afterwards we hiked another hour to the second tower, Torra Ghjenuvese d'Agnellu just before Barcaggio, from where the boats return. The tower is accessible but only to the middle not to the top, but the view is already magnificent.

Trailheads

The ruins of another watchtower on a small rocky island. — The Finocchiarola island and tower on our return hike.

There are several points where you can start this hike.

Macinaggio village (Google Maps) where the boat returns to
Plage de Tamarone, where a bumby road leads to, which I can't recommend.
There is a parking lot (Google Maps) at the beach and the U Paradisu restaurant. The restaurant is beautifully situated, but the service could have been better.
Camping de la Plage U Stazzu (Google Maps), where we started from by bike

Trail Length

A hiker and the scrub the marquis. — That's me on the Sentier des Douaniers.

Full day tour 10,5 km one way from Macinaggio and back by boat.
From Plage de Tamarone 9 km one way
From Camping de la Plage U Stazzu 10 km one way
Alternative and shorter route until the first Genoese tower 10 km return hike.
Elevation gain: approx. 150 m
Difficulty level: Medium due to the length

A bath in the Mediterranean and boats in the bay. — Cala Genovese is a great bay to cool off.

Be sure to pack swimming gear, snorkel gear, plenty of water, snacks and sun protection in your daypack.

Hotel Tips

The best starting point for this hike and to explore the north of Cape Corse is Macinaggio. Ideally located close to the beach and marina are

U Libecciu: Comfortable rooms with balcony, lovely staff and great breakfast.
Marina D'oro: Excellent location right in front of the marina and steps from restaurants and shops. Comfy beds, attentive staff and newly renovated rooms.